This week I’ve been secretly working away filming, writing up and pricing a prototyping board that I designed for the new Pi Zero – the ProtoZero. It’s now been released on Kickstarter, so I thought I better write something about it here on my blog!
I originally designed the board when the Pi Zero first came out, and received my prototypes from OSH Park a few days back. I was lucky in that only minor cosmetic changes are required for my design, meaning it was good to be Kickstarted as soon as I could get everything written up.
The campaign has now been launched – you can pledge to have your very own ProtoZero (or 2,3,4,5 of them!).
Let me show you around my latest design…
This latest design under my ProtoBoards brand is all about prototyping, and more specifically moving your breadboard projects to something less messy and more useful.
I love it when a Raspberry Pi project works as designed, but that buzz soon fades when I realise that the really cool and useful thing I’ve made is stuck to a breadboard with a spaghetti of loose jumper wires hanging out of it. You can’t take it anywhere, you dare move it for fear of a wire coming loose and they take up a lot of space.
That’s why I love prototyping boards. With a little planning and forward thinking, you can easily move your messy breadboard project to a PCB.
When the Pi Zero came out I knew it would only be a matter of minutes before I started to design a prototyping board for it. It’s just too small and low profile to not have a decent prototyping board available!
I followed my usual approach with the ProtoZero – make use of as much PCB board as possible, and keep it simple.
My new creation has 154 prototyping pads squeezed on to the little Pi Zero sized board, which are also in breadboard-style ‘lanes’ to make it even easier to solder your connections. These lanes are printed on both sides to give you a hand when soldering.
The Pi’s GPIO is connected via the supplied female 40-pin header, and is then broken out again to allow you to connect components directly. I’ve also labelled the GPIO pins (which I’ll be revising to make them larger and clearer) on both sides of the board to help you when soldering.
To HAT or not to HAT?
Let’s be clear – the ProtoZero is not officially a HAT. For starters, to be classed as a HAT a product needs to have an EEPROM chip. This doesn’t.
I don’t really get the whole HAT thing and EEPROMs etc – for me the best part about the HAT format is that you always have mounting holes to stack boards. The ProtoZero comes with these holes so is compatible to be fitted alongside other Pi Zero HATs (as long as you fit a stacking header).
The ProtoZero can be stacked, allowing you to add different components to different layers, all connected to the same GPIO.
The Kickstarter version doesn’t come with a stacking header as the design is more geared towards the Pi Zero’s small size and low profile, but if you want to buy a £1 stacking header and use that – go for it!
I experimented with large print text over the rear of the board this time as a) I wanted to see how it would look and b) there wasn’t much room left on the tiny board for the ‘ProtoZero’ name to be added.
I’m sure opinion will be mixed on the look of the rear of the board, but I just love the big text label hogging all those prototyping pads. The best bit is that it doesn’t impact the functionality of the board, as the gold plating still takes priority over the print when they clash.
The prototypes you see in the images and videos was made by OSH Park. They’re a pretty respected board house in the USA that offer really great value on small prototyping runs.
This is why I used them for this project, as some of the Chinese manufacturers have a 10+ minimum and come with the DHL charges and taxes when the delivery hits our little island